UH-13P Construction Log
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The Purpose of this website is to detail the construction of my UH-13P. The UH-13P is a 2 man hovecraft designed by Universal Hovercraft . I will update this log frequently so check back often. Make sure you reload this page in your browser so you are sure to see the latest updates. (Try holding down the shift key and clicking on reload or refesh)
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May 2001 |
Got this crazy idea to build a hovercraft. Actually it didn't just pop into my head. I have wanted to build one since seeing a Popular Mechanics article on the Yellow Jacket when I was a kid. The plans were old then. After much research and many phone calls I decided to build a UH-13P. A little bit about me... I am a Software Developer who works here. I am also a computer geek to the max see my lab at home here. I hold a private pilots license and love to fly both full size and remote control craft that I build. I also love to motorbike. I am married and have two daughters. I have always been a handy guy and like to be on the business end of most power tools. My goal is to complete this craft by the end of August 2001. Lets see how I do. Pictured top right is Mike Jacobsons white UH-13P. This is basically what I am building except I am using a belt off the thrust engine to drive the lift fan where as Mike has a 10HP engine to drive his. Pictured bottom right is a concept by Zoltan Pittner for the 13P. I am going to base mine on this design. Awesome design. To check out more views of this design click here. |
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May 2001 |
Ordered Plans and General Hovercraft Construction video from UH. $50 US. | |
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May 2001 |
Purchased 1 gallon West Systems epoxy and related application tools. $200 CAN | |
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May 2001 |
Bought new 25HP
Kohler Command Pro engine. $824 US including shipping
Engine came with new quieter muffler, 3 foot wiring harness and keyswitch. Awesome Deal. |
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May 2001 |
Ordered Prop, Lift Fan, Pulleys, bearings, skirt material etc from UH. $1050 US including shipping | ![]() |
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June 1, 2001 |
Purchased 8 sheets 4'x8'x2" Polystyrene Extruded Foam. $240 CAN. Purchased 6 sheets 1/8 marine grade ply. $300 CAN. | ![]() |
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June 2, 2001 |
Wow things are adding up... I am really committed to this now. | |
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June 3, 2001 |
Designed a simple
gravity hot wire system for cutting foam. Used a 4"x4" piece of 1/2
ply and a 4" Clamp to act as a weight on the nichrome wire. The
power to the nichrome wire comes from a handheld wire cutter designed for
building model train scenery. Cut some foam to test - works
great! I started laying out the foam today. I want to start
cutting but it is raining....
Note: I ended up using the out of the box foam cutter with the nichrome attached on one end. I attached two 4" c-clamps to the other end of the nichrome and used speaker cable to run the electricity from the other end of the bow to the base of the nichrome on the c-clamp. |
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June 8, 2001 |
Finished unpacking the parts from Universal and decided to go with a 54" thrust prop instead of the 42" one. The guys at Universal have no problems taking back the 42" and exchanging for a 54". I now have an understanding of how the drive system works. | |
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Sun June 10, 2001 8 Hours |
I laid out and cut
the bottom and top layers of foam. I made the foam 6" larger on the
sides and a few inches longer on the bow. I used foam that was
grooved on the edges (I had no choice and didn't feel cutting the grooves
off would be a good investment of my time)... this proved to be a pain
when joining with epoxy. I ended up placing the sheets a 1/2" or
less from contact and pouring epoxy into the seam. I then pushed the
pieces together and epoxied over the join. I used an 8" roller to
coat both sides of the foam with epoxy then joined them together.
When all the pieces were in place I placed a plastic sheet over the top
and laid tables and wood sheets on top. I then placed anything I
could find that was heavy on top :) I added more stuff than is in
this picture including the 110 pound 25HP Kohler. I will vacuum bag
when I laminate the top layer of foam.
Working with epoxy can sure be messy. I am glad I bought a 100pak of surgical gloves. They really came in handy. I am not sure if I used too much or enough epoxy. I coated both sides of the foam sheets with a foam 8" roller. We will see how well everything went tomorrow... |
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Mon Jun 11, 2001 1 Hour |
Took all the weights off and uncovered the hull foam. I put the foam laminate onto some tables so I could start marking out the hull outline. | ![]() |
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Tue Jun 12, 2001 2 hours |
I started by marking
a line down the center of the craft. I then went to the plans and
drew a center line down the hull. I marked 3" scale increments down
the line. I took about 20 points, the majority of them at the front
1/3 of the hull, and measured to the outside edge of the hull at a 90
degree angle to the center line. I recorder the measurement then
multiplied it by the scale factor of 12.
With measurement chart in hand I marked the 20 points down each side of the hull with a t push pin. Next I used a yellow string to run alongside the pins down both sides of the hull. .I put a little tension on the string and secured it to the stern on each side. I then started using additional tack pins halfway between each pin to gently curve the hull. This worked excellent. When I was done I ended up with a row of pins roughly 3" apart that held the yellow string that marked the outline of the hull. I again tensioned the string on each side so it wouldn't move when I ran a marker alongside the outside edge. I used a Fine Point Sanford Sharpie to mark the line. Use slight pressure against the string when running it down the line so you don't distort the outline. When I removed the push pins and string I was very happy with the shape of the hull. I have to say I used some TLAR engineering (That Looks About Right). I took Dave Schneider's advice and trusted my eyes.
I will double check the measurements before I cut. |
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Wed June 13, 2001 1 Hour |
Measurements checked
out to be within 1/8" of spec.
Today I cut out the rough outline of the foam. I left 1/2 - 1" of foam from outline. I cut one side and part of the other using a hacksaw blade. It kept bending so I switched to a regular saw. It actually worked quite well. I came very close at one point to cutting off more than I wanted to. This was because the hacksaw blade started to cut on an angle towards the hull. I didn't have that problem with the large saw. The cut was a little rougher but not much. I used a belt sander to bring the edge close to the line in some places as a test of what works best. I think I will use the belt sander to take it to 1/8" from the line then use a 2x4 block with sandpaper attached to do the rest. I noticed a few voids between the layers of foam in some places. The sheets seem solidly bonded together otherwise. I am not sure if this is something I should be concerned about. I would hate for the craft to come apart during operation. I am pretty sure it will be fine once I add the tack strips and laminate the top with 1/8 ply and fiber glass the bottom of the strips to the foam. I am pretty sure the voids are just near the edges. I may inject some epoxy into them with a large syringe and small plastic tube if I notice more of them during the shaping process. |
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Thu June 14, 2001 0.5 hour |
Experimented with different sanding tools. Tried a belt sander - wasn't happy with results. Tried my dewalt 4.5" orbital sander with 60 grit paper - better but still took a while to bring it close to the line. Block of wood with 60 grit sandpaper pulled the foam off in chunks at the edges. | |
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Fri June 15, 2001 2 hours |
It was taking too long to bring it down to the line (I left too much on my first cut) so I used a hand held hot wire to bring it to 1/4" or less from the line. Next I used the Dewalt Random Orbital Sander (see photo) to smooth out the outline and bring it very close to the line 1/16" or less. I used a 9" 2x4 block with 150 grit sandpaper to square it out and bring it up to the line. I am pretty happy with the results. This is sure a messy step. I was literally covered from head to toe with foam dust. It is actually starting to look like a 13P or at least a giants surfboard. I realize one thing now. I need a bigger garage. |
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Sat June 16, 2001 3 hours |
Well I decided on a method to attach the skirt attach strips to the hull. I used 14 quick clamps. I am doing one side at a time. I needed to flatten the curve a little at the nose because the wood wouldn't bend the way I wanted it to. I have a small fortune here invested in quick clamps. I do have to say it is the most usefull and convenient clamp I have ever owned. I will find out how well this method worked in 17 hours when the epoxy cures. Tomorrow I will attach the strip on the other side. After that I will contour the top as laid out on the plans and add the two extra attach strips at the front. Once this is complete I will lamintate the 1/8" ply to the top of the deck. Anyone have a mega-vacuum in Edmonton I can borrow? I better go cut the lawn... at least thats what my wife keeps telling me. |
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Sun June 17, 2001 1.5 Hours |
Fathers Day! My kids got me a really neat stepping stone with their hand and foot prints in it. In the picture to the right you can barely see my youngest daughter holding a yellow balloon. I removed the clamps from the previous days glueing. The bond was excellent. I was nervous that the attach strip would spring off at the front after removing the clamp. I glued the other skirt attach strip on using the same method. The middle picture right shows how I clamped the skirt attach strips at the front.
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Mon June 18, 2001 1 hour |
I removed the clamps from yesterdays skirt attach strip. Bond seems very strong. Today I cut the two front strips that bring the hull up flat after STA 128. I epoxied on the one pictured to the right. I am cris-crossing the seams at the tip of the bow. I will illustrate this later with a picture when it is complete. I also sanded the back of the craft square. I didn't really feel like working on the craft today... I resolved to complete at least one step per day during the week. Tomorrow I will glue the strip on the other side. |
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Tue June 19, 2001 1 hour |
Picture top right illustrates how I am overlapping the attach strips at the bow. It looks really messy in the photo - it really isn't. The middle photo shows the transition point where it goes from flat top to rounded. This picture didn't turn out well. The transition is actually smooth not wobbly. The bottom right photo show the other strip being bonded to the hull I most likely won't be working on the craft tomorrow as my wife needs me to watch the kids. On tap for Thursday is the rear skirt attach strip and top strip. |
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Wed June 20, 2001 0.25 hour |
Pictured to the top right is the nose of the 13P after a rough sanding Bottom right shows the bow of the 13P after all the attach strips have been attached. I really recommend a random orbital sander for this project. It has been very useful. Definately worth a $100. |
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Thu June 20, 2001 0.75 hour |
Today I attached the rear skirt attach strip.... would have done more but it was such a nice day I had to jump on the motorcycle and go for a ride. On tap for this weekend is the shaping of the top of the hull and sanding it flat where need be. I will also try and laminate the top of the craft with the 1/8 ply. Tomorrow I will attach the top strip on the rear. | ![]() |
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Fri June 22, 2001 2 hours |
I removed the clamps and the bond for the rear outer skirt attach strip is strong. I need to add a piece of 1 1/2" x 3/8" strip to the top of this strip so we are flush with the deck. I made a template from the plans and used it to make each curved side of the attach strip. This worked really well. Attaching the strip however was another story. The strip was either warped or there was some residual epoxy on top of the bottom strip. There is 1/16" space between the two strips in some places. I think I used just about every clamp I own and by the way you can't own too many clamps. I considered taking it off and redoing it. I decided not to as I will be able to fix this with some epoxy and microballoons and a few good sanding sessions. I have to be careful that I don't get caught trying to be a perfectionist. After all I am trying to finish this by the end of August. All the attach strips have now been afixed to this craft now. Tomorrow I will shape the hull top to meet the side attach strips and sand it flat elsewhere. I don't think I will be able to laminate tomorrow. I will plan to do this on Sunday. I don't want too vacuum bag and go to bed... I want to be up to babysit it. Note: Purchased another gallon of West Systems epoxy $177 |
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Any Questions? email brendin@hovercrafters.com