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Fri
May 6, 2005 |
I think I have the control system where it will work. I had to raise
the pulleys using 2 2x4 pieces stacked. The cables work well and
there is little slack and hardly any play. The pulleys and
blocks are temporary... I will mount the final ones later in a nicer way. |





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Sat
May 7, 2005 |
This is how I decided to run the controls
for the rudders. I used 5" 3/8" carriage bolts to mount the pulleys
higher and more inline with the control bar. I used 6.5" long pieces
of 2x4 and epoxied them to the deck. I held them in place with
some 3.5" deck screws. There is no tension on the cables in the
picture. I will add it when the epoxy cures. I am planning to
run a second lower pulley for the trim wing.
Last three pictures show how the trim wing pulley
system will work |







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Sun May 8, 2005 |
My controls are a squeaky success... I put tension on
the rudder cables and hooked up the trim wing. Everything operates
smoothly. I need to find something to lubricate these pulleys...
probably won't matter though when the engine is running I'll never hear
the squeak...still it is annoying. |










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Mon May 9, 2005 |
My anal retentive side reared its ugly head tonight.
I was thinking today at lunch that it would have been better to put the
trim wing pulley cable in line with the right side rudder cable.
This would allow the line to be run through a hole in the side of the
seat. It would also allow me to run the vertical supports on either
side of the seat at the back to stiffen it up. So I got out the hand
saw and hacked off the pulley 2x4 just in front of motor. I made the
replacement piece, drilled the hole in the seat side for the wire and
positioned it. After getting it lined up and marked I epoxied it in
place. I feel so much better now :P |
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Sat May 21, 2005 |
Pictures 1 to 4 - I rigged a rope hoist to pull the
motor straight up and out of the craft. I epoxied a piece of 1/4ply
to the back of the seat to stiffen it up. I drilled a hole through
it to allow the throttle cable to pass through.
Pictures 5 to 11 - I used 1"x 3/4" wood to build
the "T" into the back of the seat. All pieces are epoxied into
place. |











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Sun May 22, 2005 |
Removed the clamps. Used a trim router with flush
trim bit to flush the back ply seat stiffeners to the outer edges.
In the last picture you can see how the seats will line
up with the outside wall. |



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Thu May 26, 2005 |
I epoxied 1/4 ply to the left and right seat sides.
I epoxied a 1/4" ply piece at the rear of the seat. I am going to
use a tim router with a flush trim bit to flush the ply with the edges of
the seat. I used duct tape to mask off around the edges of the ply
and on the main seat to keep the epoxy from adhering. |

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Friday May 27, 2005 |
I used the trim router with a flush trim bit to flush
cut the plywood with the outer seat frame edges. It worked really
well. I am going to leave it open under the seats to allow air flow
into the engine compartment. Up next is the seat back. I'll
probably use a round off bit to round off the edge of the seat at the
front to make it comfortable for people sitting there with shorts on.
I am using 1/4" ply for the seat back. I angled
the seat back enough so I have clearance to the engine and am able to
hoist the motor out. The motor is actually forward of where I have
it setup of where it will be when the belts are on. This will give
me even more clearance. I used the level, wood, and angle
aluminum to hold the top wooden stringers in position while I marked and
measured the seat top. |





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Sun May 29, 2005 |
I built the gas tank/ thrust brace today. I used
3/4" aluminum tube and 1" angle aluminum. I used 1/4" stainless
steel bolts with nylon lock nuts. This will
act as a brace betwen the thrust prop stand and the body of the
hovercraft. It also reinforces the seat back. The 6 gallon
tank on top will weigh up to 55lbs when full. |








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Wed Jun 22, 2005 |
Wow! Almost a month since I last worked on the
craft. I fabricated some supports for the gas tank mount/ thrust
prop brace out of 3/4" angle aluminum. I cut up a pool noodle and
used it on the angle aluminum that holds the tank. This will help
isolate the tank from vibration. The mounts are strong. I
stood on the platform and bounced up and down. I weigh 275lbs so it
was a pretty good test. The tank should weigh about 50lbs when full.
This completes the major fabrication. Now I
need to fillet and coat the remaining bare wood with epoxy before
painting. I will probably put one more 4oz layer of glass on the
front top of the cockpit and wrap it around under the dash to strengthen
it.
After this is complete I will put on the two cockpit
sides then I will be ready to start sanding and filling in order to
prepare for paint. |




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Mon Jun 27, 2005 |
I am going to run the sides of the hovercraft to the
back of the craft like one of the mockups in the pictures to the right.
No wise cracks about my paintbrush abilities :) |






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Go on to page 17... |
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